Jul 13, 2011 Posted in Chef Notes, Restaurant Reviews

Amangani

Published in Chef Notes, Jackson Hole News & Guide, June 1, 2011
Shared by Chef Rick Sordahl
Amangani Resort

 

Cabernet Braised Bison Short Ribs

Serves 10

10 lb         bison short ribs

4 oz         smoked Applewood Sunday bacon

12 oz         Spanish onion, medium dice

1          leek, medium dice

4 oz          celery, medium dice

3         garlic cloves

3 oz         tomato paste

1½ oz flour

2 qt         veal stock

2 c         chicken broth

3 c         cabernet wine

1 T         black peppercorns

1         bay leaf

2         juniper berries

1         sprig fresh thyme

Heat a large skillet, season bison ribs and sear on both sides until dark golden brown, remove and place on pan to cool. Add bacon to skillet, render until crispy, add onion, leek and garlic and saute until translucent. Add tomato paste and dust with flour and cook, do not brown. Deglaze pan with wine and reduce by half. Add stock and aromatics, bring to boil and simmer while stirring constantly, add bison shanks back to pot and cook 30 minutes until tender. Remove bison ribs from braising liquid, strain and season to taste.

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A conversation with Rick Sordahl is inspiring. His curiosity, intelligence and dedication all shine through. For me there is as much nourishment in his words as in the impeccable cuisine he conjures in the kitchen at the Amangani.

It seems that much of Sordahl’s youth is reflected in his vision today. He grew up in Seattle of one hundred percent Norwegian stock. He speaks with reverence of his grandmothers’ family dinners. He recalls the fun of watching Graham Kerr’s and Julia Child’s cooking shows on television with his mom.

He loved the adventures he shared with his dad who was a volunteer fireman and later fire marshall. Cooking was what his dad did while hanging out at the firehouse. Together they ventured to the sea coast or Hood’s Canal where they caught fish, dug clams and oysters and feasted at the beach on the ultimate freshness of their catch.

Nightly family dinners of fresh, real foods and conversation were an important ritual that combined learning social graces and the pleasure of company shared. As Sordahl’s mom was born in Montana, the family often shared vacations and fly fishing trips in the Rocky Mountains. His acquaintance with Yellowstone and Grand Teton Parks came early on these family trips and during teen years on excursions with his buddies.

Sordahl chose to follow his culinary path in a chef’s training at the local Renton Community College. After school he began his career at the Arizona Biltmore in Phoenix. The seasonal and climactic differences allowed workers to migrate to appropriate venues. In the summer of 1981, that led the chef to Jackson Lake Lodge for the summer. He decided to stay through the winter and worked in Teton Village at the Sojourner. As he shared with me, “I didn’t ski. I worked all the time.”

Sordahl’s career took him and his family to Florida for twenty years. For eight years he worked at the Resort at Long Boat Key. He did work a couple summers in Sun Valley. Ten years at the exclusive Ocean Reef Club brought him to the position of executive sous chef. The resort has the capacity to house and serve not only the most exclusive guests, but a few thousand guests at a time.

During those years looking and dreaming forward, the Sordahls purchased a home on the Idaho side of the pass believing that this landscape would eventually be home. It was on offer from the Wild Sage at the Rusty Parrot Lodge that  afforded that opportunity.

Two years ago Sordahl moved up the butte as the executive chef of the Amangani Resort. “It’s the best place I could be,” the chef told me. “It’s my creativity and it’s about what the guests want to eat.” His diligence has earned him accolades including the recent dinner he was honored to prepare at the famed James Beard House in New York. Our conversation reflected his articulate awareness of flavor profiles to create a wonderful menu, seasonality and product availability to showcase consistent excellence.

During our visit the service paralleled the food. There was quiet and gracious attentiveness, coupled with a sharing of knowledge. Every aspect of our evening was pleasurable. The view overlooking our mountains, still stubbornly refusing to give up their winter’s cover, was astounding.

We started our meal with a spicy roasted cauliflower apple smoked cheddar puree with lobster salad, creme fraiche, elephant garlic chips and cilantro oil. It was a subtle elegance. As a counterpoint the special salad with king crab, shrimp, mangoes and cucumbers on a bed of baby greens with a orange tarragon Dijon vinaigrette was filled with dynamic flavors.

Other starters include a Caesar salad, plus a crispy Vermont quail breast with scallion Johnny cake, wilted chicory, and dried cherry pine nut conserve. The roasted golden beet cara cara orange salad with Utah goat cheese croquette, baby arugula, hazelnut mole and pomegranate red wine vinaigrette is a favorite.

For an entree I could not resist the Arctic Char fillet. Ever since I worked in kitchens in New Orleans, I have a fascination with tasso, lean, pepper-rubbed smoked pork. The char was served with toasted Marcona almonds, asparagus risotto, braised fennel and tasso crawfish gravy. I savored every bite and yet manage to share a bit. The American Kobe beef tenderloin, Asian spiced, served with scallion potato gratin, baby green bean saute and shiitake soy reduction was a winning combination, tender beef melded into a luxurious combination of tastes.

Other entrees include an elk chop with chanterelle mushroom ragu, and rack of lamb crusted with horseradish and Sicilian olive fingerling potato home fries.  Montana bison short ribs served with roasted shallot mashed potatoes, wilted snow pea shoots and a spicy apple relish sound fantastic. Chef Sordahl has shared the chipotle cabernet braised ribs recipe with us, and I will be making that at home and for clients really soon.

We ended the evening with a bit of dark chocolate and last sips of a wonderful wine. I’d visit again at the drop of a hat. I loved every minute.