Jul 13, 2011 Posted in Chef Notes, Entrées, Restaurant Reviews

The Kitchen

 

Published in Chef Notes, Jackson Hole News & Guide, June 15, 2011
Shared by Chef/Owner Jarrett Schwartz
The Kitchen

 

Red Yam & Turnip Hash with Red Curry

1          small yam

1         large purple turnip

½           sweet onion

1          red bell pepper

1          pasilla pepper

1 t         fresh thyme leaf

1         clove garlic minced

Cut all vegetables same size dice, saute over medium heat until tender, add garlic, saute, add thyme, deglaze with white wine.  Add red curry, heat and serve

 

Red curry

2 T          chopped ginger and garlic

Small handful each basil, cilantro, mint

24 oz coconut milk

2 oz          lime juice

2 oz          fish sauce

2 T          sugar

Saute ginger and garlic, deglaze with white wine, add the rest of ingredients, bring to boil, simmer for 3 minutes, strain. Add salt to taste.

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There is fabulous, fabulous news on the restaurant front. The Kitchen is the short answer. A more rounded explanation is this: the culinary talents of Jarrett Schwartz and his Blu Kitchen has been folded under the entrepreneurial wing of Gavin Fine and the Fine Dining Group.

When I visited with Schwartz a few days ago he shared his thoughts. “Before I opened Blu, I was very excited about having a nice little place of my own,” Schwartz stated. “I thought I wanted to be in charge of everything.”

Having been a restaurant owner on more than one occasion myself, I completely understand. There are too many tiny little decisions to make that take up too much time. It’s great to have a team. It’s less stressful to follow your strengths and let others play to theirs.

Schwartz has always strived for excellence as a chef, from his twelve year stint at Chez Betty in Park City learning French technique to the skills he learned from mentors in Latin and Japanese cuisines. He loves the minimalism of sushi and the blending of all influences into Modern American. He came to our valley as the opening sushi chef at Nikai, then opened Mizu Sushi at the Pines creating some phenomenal artistry.

Both the look and the food at The Kitchen reflect a more accessible, more relaxed environment. The food is straightforward and beautiful, artful and edible. The wine list is greatly expanded as are the beer choices. There is now a bartender to mix some specialty cocktails. It will be fun to sit on the deck on those precious summer nights and explore the choices.

We sampled from the crudo bar section of the menu, after questioning what does “crudo” mean? It is the word for raw in Italian and Spanish. “It’s sort of a new trend popping up in cities these days” is what I heard from both Fine and my friend Dave who had peacefully enjoyed the crudo king salmon with wild baby arugula, parmesan reggiano, extra virgin olive oil and a bit of citrus soy before I sat down beside him. He also told me the spaghetti with lobster special had been a most satisfying treat. His bowl was empty.

We had the day boat scallops with blood orange, red chile, fresh ginger, olive oil and a sprinkling of sea salt. So simple, so gorgeous, so gone in an instant. The albacore with Oaxacan chile lemon sauce and pickled jalapeno tickled my fancy. The ahi tuna wrapped tartare with citrus vinaigrette was a delicacy.

Appetizers and salads include three combinations of greens and raw vegetables for the season. Field greens with almonds, gorgonzola, dried cranberries and a citrus vinaigrette or Wyomatoes with red chile spiked ricotta, basil, mint, chives and a ginger dressing sound stellar. Summer squash, red onion, basil, pumpkin seeds, beet gastrique with a balsamic vinaigrette whispers of summer yet to come.

Lobster sliders are an authentic take on the great New England favorite, in appetizer portions. The Kurobuta pork nachos are a tasty twist, not a mounded plate. The pork is braised to make it moist and flavorful. The accompaniment of spicy cabbage, black bean corn salsa and creme fraiche suited my taste buds just fine. The beef carpaccio with beehive cheddar and grainy mustard brought an interesting assessment from my companion. “I’m not sure I would have ordered that and it is my favorite. I usually don’t like to go out to eat. I get overstuffed and uncomfortable. This is different. I feel completely satisfied. I have gotten all of the nutritious parts,” spoke that happy camper.

Main courses have a nice variety. The new version of Schwartz’ dynamite burger features caramelized peppers, provolone, kutobuta ham, chipotle aoili, salty pickles and the famed truffled fries that are to live for (as opposed to die for). The housemade spaghetti with chicken, summer squash, basil creme and parmesan. The favorite pan seared red deer with shiitakes and sherried cherries is a carryover on the menu. There is pan roasted salmon with kale, white beans and chorizo. Wagyu flank steak, Berkshire pork osso bucco, rainbow trout, achiote spiced walu, grilled mackerel make it hard to get to everything I wish to try.

My companion and I asked politely, we might have begged, for a taste of the red yam, turnip hash with spicy red curry that is served with the walu. It is unbelievably good. I scored the recipe for those who wish to try it at home.

A fresh touch with desserts brought us a strawberry crisp that was tasty, but not too sweet with strawberry ice cream. I hear the peanut butter tart is killer.

Meanwhile, a couple blocks south on Glenwood … The Everest MoMo Shack has started to do a Sunday night only special Nepali Thali, Dal Bhat. All of my friends who have spent time in Nepal are really excited. I’ll be trying some soon.