Aug 10, 2011 Posted in Chef Notes, Restaurant Reviews

Aspen’s Market

Published in Chef Notes, Jackson Hole News & Guide, August 10, 2011
Shared by Chef Joel Cox
Aspen’s Market

 

Dustin Varga’s Mustard Spiked Brussels Sprouts

3 lb Brussels Sprouts, washed and trimmed

2         red bell peppers, cleaned cut in thin strips

4 cloves garlic, minced

3 T          butter

3 T          stone ground mustard

juice of 1 lemon, or to taste

3 T          EVOO

¼ c          white wine (optional)

1 t          chili flakes

3 T          salt

In a large pot bring wine, chili flakes, 1 T EVOO, salt and 4 quarts water to boil. Add Brussels, stir and poach approximately 6 minutes. Remove and place in ice bath. Saute the garlic in the butter until golden. Place drained Brussels, peppers, lemon juice, mustard, garlic butter, and remaining EVOO toss well. Spread onto baking sheet and roast in 375° oven for 10-15minutes, until tender and golden. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

This dish has a quite a following here and I think people would really enjoy it! It makes a perfect side for roasted chicken. Here is how we do our roasted chickens

 

One whole natural bird 3.5-4 lbs, cleaned of excess fat and trussed

1 t          chopped fresh rosemary

2 t          chopped fresh thyme

1 t          chopped fresh sage

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 T          EVOO

salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 425°. Season bird with salt. Mix remaining ingredients together, rub bird with goods including inside the cavity. Place in roasting pan uncovered. Put in oven for 10 minutes, then check. After it begins to take on color, reduce oven temp to 325° and continue to cook for about 20 minutes. If color begins to get too dark cover with foil. When the temperature of the bird reaches 165° remove from the oven, cover with foil and allow to rest for 5 minutes. Carve and enjoy.

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Ah, how wonderful to be young and a perfectionist. I am filled with admiration for Joel Cox, the butcher and chef at the new Aspens Market. Together with the Reids, who own the market, they have been doing a great job at creating their new place. It’s fresh and streamlined, a grocer, butcher and deli, filled with interesting, quality ingredients and products.

Cox formative childhood memories are of his time in his grandparents’ world on the Tulalip Indian Reservation north of Seattle. It was their way of life to grow and gather foods, hunt, fish and live from the land. That set the stage for the strong desire in his professional life to source ingredients and create the purist foods possible.

The culinary program at the local community college was Cox’s educational path and from there to his first job at Olive’s Wine Bar. He worked from 2003 to 2005 in Seattle at Jonathan Sunstrum’s Lark restaurant.

From there Cox found a new inspiration. On Vachon Island at Kurtwood Farms he spent 5 years helping grow their farm dinners. Every Sunday, rain or shine, the staff created a local sustainable feast of 9 courses. The chefs did utilize a few staples such as salt, pepper, flour and sugar. Everything else was created from scratch from the surroundings of the farm and the island.

Dinners started with 20 guests. They grew by word of mouth networking. Folks had to be introduced and brought to the events by those who had already attended. The momentum was astounding and after 5 years the adventure reached its end.

Before landing in Jackson Hole this winter to help with the new market, Cox has been inspired by and involved with Brady Lowe’s Cuchon555, a ten city tour of culinary events involving chefs, wineries and heritage hogs. He also spent 8 months in Italy learning the art of butchering.

One of the Aspens Market’s contribution to the lofty benefit for Vertical Harvest last week on top of the town parking garage was Cox’s porchetta. Porchetta  is a skin-on mid section of a pig that is boned, spiced with rosemary, garlic, lots of fennel pollen, chili flakes, salt and pepper. The loin is rolled inside the belly to keep it moist, tied tight with butcher’s twine, covered, and baked in a hot oven for a few hours.

“Good food takes time,” Cox shared, “Since the market opened March 8 it seems we have been scrambling to catch up. The goal is to create everything as sustainably as possible.” They bring in whole hogs and steers from the Robinson Family Farm. One of the chef’s hopes is that their meat program becomes known as a destination. Nothing is prepackaged. Fresh ground burger is easy to discern. The steaks and roasts are the best I have seen. I can hardly wait for the occasion to bring some home.

They are featuring specials such as Taco Tuesdays with pork carnitas, a fabulous and tasty bargain. Cox is loves to interact with customers and was thrilled when a customer recently recognized his Tomahawk steak cut. Benton’s Bacon has a dense smoky flavor. Cox’s house made sausages of 3 varieties were all flavorful and extremely lean. His ragu is divinely inspired.

Cox said that his goal is to streamline, and yet they are making everything including their own mayonnaise from scratch. He gives great credit to Dustin Varga, the prepared salads guru of their deli, who has broad experience in grocery.

I have sampled many of the products. The delicious tuna salad starts with fresh albacore. They roast the chickens that are transformed into their tasty chicken salad with pecans, celery and grapes. The Kasmiri black rice salad delighted my palate. The hummus was especially well seasoned with a creamy texture. The list of palate pleasing choices is large including a roasted beet salad, wheat berries with veggies, quinoa, and a selection of vegetables such as grilled asparagus, broccolini with lemon zest and red pepper flakes and green beans with miso.

I hope the new Aspens Market is well supported in their desire to bring our valley incredible quality culinary delights.