Aug 24, 2011 Posted in Chef Notes, Restaurant Reviews

Jenny Lake Lodge

Published in Chef Notes, Jackson Hole News & Guide, August 24, 2011
Shared by Executive chef Vishwatej R Nath
Jenny Lake Lodge

Lavender Infused Panna Cotta

Serves 6

2 T         water

1 ¼ t         gelatin powder

2 c         whipping cream

¾ c         milk

¾ c         vanilla yogurt

1 t         vanilla extract

½ c         sugar

½ T         lavender buds

 

Heat milk just to boiling and drop in the lavender buds. Remove from heat and let infuse until the milk cools to room temperature. Strain the milk and throw away the buds.

Pour 2 tablespoons of water into a small bowl. Sprinkle gelatin over water. Let it stand until softened, about 15 minutes.

Whisk 1 cup cream, yogurt, and vanilla in large bowl to blend. Heat remaining 1 cup cream and 1/2 cup sugar in small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves and cream comes to simmer. Remove from heat. Add gelatin mixture, stirring to dissolve gelatin. Mix hot cream-gelatin mixture into yogurt mixture in bowl. Strain the mixture to make sure it is uniform. Divide mixture among six 3/4-cup ramekins or small cups, using about 1/2 cup for each. Refrigerate desserts uncovered until cold, then cover and refrigerate overnight.

You may add any flavor or topping you are in the mood for, such as garnishing with berries and a spring of mint or whipped cream if you like.

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An evening sublime is the way to describe it, like going to heaven without dying. Lesser terms would be inaccurate reflections of our dinner at Jenny Lake Lodge. After a perfect summer day of touring Grand Teton National Park and a stroll by String Lake, it was a sanctuary to ease into the lodge with rocking chairs aligned on the porch facing the cathedral group of peaks.

We were seated with that same view across the wildflower studded meadow. A brief summer shower just after we were seated added a sparkle to the landscape of changing light.

Weeks before a pal of mine arrived for her first visit to Jackson Hole she was informed by a friend who has been here that the one thing she must do was dine at Jenny Lake Lodge. What a great idea. Every summer I seek out one dining experience in the parks. Why not go for the best?

Everyone from Levi Thorn, the director of marketing, who set up the event to the gracious treatment by all of the staff deserves praise. Executive chef Vishwatej R Nath has spectacular command of his artistry and culinary skills. As we dined we noticed a unique pace among all of the diners. There was an element of slow motion as each palate paused in the savoring of every taste.

Chef Nath was raised in Hyderabad, India. A city known as The City of Pearls, it is the capital of the state Andhra Pradesh, the crossroads of north and south. From a diverse background with a Roman Catholic mother and a Hindu father, he had the culinary experiences of both those cultures and their celebrations as well.

His mom might have ruled the kitchen, but his dad was a creative cook. That made cooking intriguing. His mother used to make apple wine and red wine for Christmas, plus Christmas pudding and chocolate fudge. Watching his parents and grandma cook and bake was pivotal. As there was no opportunity for cooking school, hotel management was the path.

After graduating with degrees in hotel and hospitality management in India and through a distance learning program from the Educational Institute of American Hotel & Lodging Association, Nath studied in Geneva, Switzerland at the Institut Hotelier Cesar Ritz at Le Bouveret. This center of European cultures was a gateway for exploring international cuisines.

Nath arrived in the United States in 2004 on a student exchange visa to study pastries. He was on a learning path at the Vail Marriott from that autumn until May of 2006, when he first came to the Jenny Lake Lodge. Continuing to gain skills, he has experienced aspects of Vail Resorts including banquet, pastry and sous chef positions in locations including the Mandalay Bay Casino in Las Vegas and the Boca Raton Pass Club in Florida.

An eye for detail and perfection, plus his skills as a leader brought Chef Vishu the position of Executive Chef of Grand Teton Lodge Company in May of last year. “Grand Teton National Park is a spectacular stage. The winters are cold and very quiet. During the season we have 120 days and serve 9000 meals.” About his philosophy Nath shared, “Keep it short and simple. Food is something that looks, smells and tastes good.”

Our first taste was day boat scallop with a slaw of fennel, blood orange and micro greens. It got our attention right away. The four starters were a wild mushroom papardelle with parmesan beurre fondue and aged gruyere so smooth plus perfectly seared wild caught prawns with a cannellini bean ragout of uncanny flavor balance. Spiced duck prosciutto took us by surprise, it was so good with marinated asparagus and a delicate mustard sauce. Roasted beet tartare with apple vinaigrette, candied walnuts and ricotta salata was just the right counterpoint, cool, tart, striking.

Both soups were extremely pleasing: wild mushroom brie bisque with VSOP cognac creme fraiche and a butternut squash, smooth and silky. The signature salad of organic greens, dried tart cherries and glazed pecans had just a whisper of red onion vinaigrette. The grilled romaine hearts Caesar had us wide eyed with its presentation of powdered olive oil and anchovy foam. The classic dressing was superlative.

The grilled elk chop could not have been improved. Accompanied by sage spaetzle, huckleberry port sauce and crispy onions, the aspects of flavor and texture convolved to explode on my taste buds. The chicken roulade was another surprise. It’s just chicken, right? Not at all. The pounded and rolled breast filled with sun dried tomatoes, spinach, mozzarella and prosciutto was tender and moist. The creamy mascapone polenta and chasseur sauce added to its charm.

When we were served a lavender infused panna cotta with ripe summer berries my buddy said, “This puts me in a very happy place.” A tiny box of hand made truffles to take home took it over the top. I’ve never had a better meal.

Chef Vishu shared “During the summer I don’t take any days off, but most days I take some time to kayak on the lake.” All must conspire to keep him in just the right state of serenity.