Aug 10, 2011 Posted in Chef Notes, Restaurant Reviews

Aspen’s Market

Published in Chef Notes, Jackson Hole News & Guide, August 10, 2011
Shared by Chef Joel Cox
Aspen’s Market

 

Dustin Varga’s Mustard Spiked Brussels Sprouts

3 lb Brussels Sprouts, washed and trimmed

2         red bell peppers, cleaned cut in thin strips

4 cloves garlic, minced

3 T          butter

3 T          stone ground mustard

juice of 1 lemon, or to taste

3 T          EVOO

¼ c          white wine (optional)

1 t          chili flakes

3 T          salt

In a large pot bring wine, chili flakes, 1 T EVOO, salt and 4 quarts water to boil. Add Brussels, stir and poach approximately 6 minutes. Remove and place in ice bath. Saute the garlic in the butter until golden. Place drained Brussels, peppers, lemon juice, mustard, garlic butter, and remaining EVOO toss well. Spread onto baking sheet and roast in 375° oven for 10-15minutes, until tender and golden. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

This dish has a quite a following here and I think people would really enjoy it! It makes a perfect side for roasted chicken. Here is how we do our roasted chickens

 

One whole natural bird 3.5-4 lbs, cleaned of excess fat and trussed

1 t          chopped fresh rosemary

2 t          chopped fresh thyme

1 t          chopped fresh sage

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 T          EVOO

salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 425°. Season bird with salt. Mix remaining ingredients together, rub bird with goods including inside the cavity. Place in roasting pan uncovered. Put in oven for 10 minutes, then check. After it begins to take on color, reduce oven temp to 325° and continue to cook for about 20 minutes. If color begins to get too dark cover with foil. When the temperature of the bird reaches 165° remove from the oven, cover with foil and allow to rest for 5 minutes. Carve and enjoy.

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Ah, how wonderful to be young and a perfectionist. I am filled with admiration for Joel Cox, the butcher and chef at the new Aspens Market. Together with the Reids, who own the market, they have been doing a great job at creating their new place. It’s fresh and streamlined, a grocer, butcher and deli, filled with interesting, quality ingredients and products.

Cox formative childhood memories are of his time in his grandparents’ world on the Tulalip Indian Reservation north of Seattle. It was their way of life to grow and gather foods, hunt, fish and live from the land. That set the stage for the strong desire in his professional life to source ingredients and create the purist foods possible.

The culinary program at the local community college was Cox’s educational path and from there to his first job at Olive’s Wine Bar. He worked from 2003 to 2005 in Seattle at Jonathan Sunstrum’s Lark restaurant.

From there Cox found a new inspiration. On Vachon Island at Kurtwood Farms he spent 5 years helping grow their farm dinners. Every Sunday, rain or shine, the staff created a local sustainable feast of 9 courses. The chefs did utilize a few staples such as salt, pepper, flour and sugar. Everything else was created from scratch from the surroundings of the farm and the island.

Dinners started with 20 guests. They grew by word of mouth networking. Folks had to be introduced and brought to the events by those who had already attended. The momentum was astounding and after 5 years the adventure reached its end.

Before landing in Jackson Hole this winter to help with the new market, Cox has been inspired by and involved with Brady Lowe’s Cuchon555, a ten city tour of culinary events involving chefs, wineries and heritage hogs. He also spent 8 months in Italy learning the art of butchering.

One of the Aspens Market’s contribution to the lofty benefit for Vertical Harvest last week on top of the town parking garage was Cox’s porchetta. Porchetta  is a skin-on mid section of a pig that is boned, spiced with rosemary, garlic, lots of fennel pollen, chili flakes, salt and pepper. The loin is rolled inside the belly to keep it moist, tied tight with butcher’s twine, covered, and baked in a hot oven for a few hours.

“Good food takes time,” Cox shared, “Since the market opened March 8 it seems we have been scrambling to catch up. The goal is to create everything as sustainably as possible.” They bring in whole hogs and steers from the Robinson Family Farm. One of the chef’s hopes is that their meat program becomes known as a destination. Nothing is prepackaged. Fresh ground burger is easy to discern. The steaks and roasts are the best I have seen. I can hardly wait for the occasion to bring some home.

They are featuring specials such as Taco Tuesdays with pork carnitas, a fabulous and tasty bargain. Cox is loves to interact with customers and was thrilled when a customer recently recognized his Tomahawk steak cut. Benton’s Bacon has a dense smoky flavor. Cox’s house made sausages of 3 varieties were all flavorful and extremely lean. His ragu is divinely inspired.

Cox said that his goal is to streamline, and yet they are making everything including their own mayonnaise from scratch. He gives great credit to Dustin Varga, the prepared salads guru of their deli, who has broad experience in grocery.

I have sampled many of the products. The delicious tuna salad starts with fresh albacore. They roast the chickens that are transformed into their tasty chicken salad with pecans, celery and grapes. The Kasmiri black rice salad delighted my palate. The hummus was especially well seasoned with a creamy texture. The list of palate pleasing choices is large including a roasted beet salad, wheat berries with veggies, quinoa, and a selection of vegetables such as grilled asparagus, broccolini with lemon zest and red pepper flakes and green beans with miso.

I hope the new Aspens Market is well supported in their desire to bring our valley incredible quality culinary delights.

 

Jul 27, 2011 Posted in Chef Notes, Restaurant Reviews

Hatchet Motel

Published in Chef Notes, Jackson Hole News & Guide, July 27, 2011
Shared by Chef Ron James
Hatchet Motel

 

Hatchet Resort Beef and Buffalo Chili

Serves many. Freeze some for later.

2 c olive oil

2 chopped red bell peppers

2 chopped green bell peppers

2 chopped yellow bell peppers

3 chopped white onions

1 c minced garlic

4 c Anaheim chilies

3 lbs ground beef

1 lb ground buffalo

#10 can plum tomatoes

#10 can kidney beans

#10 can black beans

3 small cans tomato paste

1 c cumin

1 c chili powder

½ c salt

½ c black pepper

½ c paprika

½ c Worcestershire

2 bottles Snake River Lager

Heat a large stock pot over medium heat, add olive oil, add vegetables and cook until tender. Add the beef and buffalo and seasonings, stir until browned. Drain and add beans, tomatoes, tomato paste, Worcestershire and beer. Stir well. Bring to a boil and then slow simmer for about 10 hours, stirring occasionally. Taste. Add spices ¼ cup at a time until desired flavor is achieved.

They serve this as an entrée, on nachos and it makes an awesome chili dog, as long as you use all beef franks.

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We were in the heart of Dixie the other night, just east of Moran Junction at the Hatchet Resort in the Whetstone dining room. Hospitality and good cheer were bubbling over, a diverse crowd of people were all seeming pretty darn happy. Delicious looking plates streamed by us into the dining room trailing enticing aromas. We settled right on in.

I’d heard from several sources, including a journalist from Oregon who contacted my editor at the paper that the folks from Mississippi who were there were serving up some really fine food. On a beautiful summer night why not find out?

Greeting us with a friendly smile and that unmistakably warm drawl was Ron James, the manager. When I asked about “the chef” in our initial phone conversation James told me there was no chef. He learned to cook from his Grandma and his Great Grandma. “I always liked to make big spreads for loads of people. A little bit of this and a little bit of that goes a long way as long as you don’t go overboard.” That’s as good of a philosophy of how to cook as any I’ve heard. James’ son Josh is part of the crew. He cooks dinners. His dad shared that Josh hadn’t been schooled as a chef either. He worked construction and lived with his cousin who was trained in the field. They just loved hanging out and experimenting with recipes, cooking for friends. That’s how he learned.

The whole staff shares that hospitality gene and James shares credit with his staff. “We all work really well together. They are great,” James told me. “If they don’t carry their weight, I get rid of them.” One of the guys said, “It’s kinda cool. We’ve served folks from 24 countries. If they stop by once, they come again.”

Some things are meant to be. James shared that he was born in Natchez and went to school in Hattiesburg. (I don’t know if you know this, but our states are quite similar in that the whole states are both like small towns.) He lived south of Memphis and managed a furniture store for a long time. Then, in a less happy period of his life, he was managing the footwear department of a Sportsman’s Warehouse. This guy came in looking for winter snow boots. James asked, “Now why would you need boots like this in Memphis?” The gentleman, Billy Graves, said that he ran the Hatchet Resort in Wyoming. James said, “Take me with you! I can be there tomorrow to start working.” He obviously had no idea how long the drive was, but drive to Jackson Hole he did. Graves stayed for the next year. Three years later James says he is here to stay. Managing a store is not that much different from this. It’s all customer service.

The Hatchet was homesteaded as a ranch in 1892. In the mid 1950’s after the highway went through, the motel was added. In 1998 the current owners partnered with the Jackson Hole Land Trust to buy it out of bankruptcy auction. They permanently protected the land’s scenic vistas and wildlife corridors, leaving 7 of the 800 plus acres for the resort operations.

The Whetstone dining room building has been added in the last few years. It is a beautifully crafted log building with expanses of glass facing the Tetons beyond a lush meadow. The bar and the fireplace are surrounded by hammered copper. The furnishings are made by local artists, some fashioned from antique sleds. There is an upright piano. The whole environment is ripe for festive gatherings.

One of the first plates that caught my eye was the nachos. They looked great! Our shared recipe is the chili that serves as their base. The pizzas I saw also whetted my appetite. We had a Caesar salad that was a fine balance of flavors, crisp romaine and hand made croutons. They offer a chef’s salad (even though there’s no chef) and a garden salad, plus a Wrangler salad that includes grilled flat iron steak, red onions, tomatoes, feta and garlic croutons.

The entree choices include half pound buffalo and beef burgers, bacon wrapped filet (the most expensive at $29.95), ribeye steak, brisket, grilled chicken, trout and barbeque shrimp. All include a salad, potato choice and vegetable. Homemade spaghetti and meatballs or Fettucini Alfredo is $12.95 and comes with house salad and garlic bread.

The nightly specials were London broil w/ mashed potatoes loaded with caramelized onions and a generous portion of al dente cooked fresh broccoli or a pork chop with white wine cream sauce, sauteed mushrooms with angel hair pasta with pesto and broccoli. The London broil was excellent. We shared the barbeque shrimp, 6 large grilled tasty crustaceans, with crisp sweet potato fries and a sauteed medley of colorful peppers, onions and zucchini.

Everything was just plain delicious. All were served cheerfully in a timely fashion. As we watched the sun dip below the horizon, we were bathed in the laughter of a huge table of folks from the neighborhood enjoying the evening.

I loved the fact that none of us even mentioned dessert.

 

Jul 13, 2011 Posted in Chef Notes, Entrées, Restaurant Reviews

Spoons Bistro

Published in Chef Notes, Jackson Hole News & Guide, July 13, 2011
Shared by Chef /Owner Travis Brittingham
Spoons Bistro

 

Spaghetti of Zucchini

One Serving

12 oz         zucchini

2 cloves garlic

1 T sun-dried tomato oil

¼ oz fresh basil

2 oz         parmesan

2 garlic toasts (1/8 baguette, 1 T garlic oil)

Trim the zucchini on both ends, cut where the stem stops and shave the blossom end. Julienne the zucchini on a mandolin or cut by hand. Slice the garlic paper thin, starting from the tip and discarding the root. Core the tomatoes, remove the seeds and chop roughly. Julienne the basil.

Heat the oil in a saute pan over medium heat, add tomatoes and cook until they begin to break down. Add the garlic and sweat for 30 seconds. Add the zucchini and cook until al dente. Add the basil and toss to incorporate. Season with salt and pepper.

Serve in a warmed bowl topped with shaved parmesan and garlic toasts on the side.

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The lush Austrian Copper rose bush blooming adjacent to our parking place put me in a festive mood even before I stepped inside the door of Spoons Bistro in Victor. It’s a welcoming dining room, and yet on a perfect summer night we chose the front deck for our seating. The wafting aroma of Three Little Pigs from the smoker nearby certainly hypnotized us. Too bad those piggies wouldn’t be ready until the next day.

Chef Travis Brittingham’s note on the menu states, “I’m sorry to say that the pigs have gone to a design conference and will be returning soon.” That shows just a little bit about his level of spunk. This ambitious young chef is driven toward perfection. He’s going to work hard and have fun inventing both himself and some delicious food every step of the way. The pigs, as described on the menu could make anyone’s mouth water: Confit pork belly, pulled pork, SofaKingGood BBQ Sauce™ & house coleslaw with 460° bacon bread.

Brittingham prides himself on being self-taught. A stint in the army that took him from his Delaware roots to Arlington, Virginia proved influential. As he told me, “I wouldn’t have passed up that opportunity. It gave me my attention to detail. Maybe 99% of the people won’t notice. It’s that one person that counts. I’m going to put in the effort because someone will notice.” (more…)

Jul 13, 2011 Posted in Chef Notes, Desserts, Restaurant Reviews

The Garage

Published in Chef Notes, Jackson Hole News & Guide, June 29, 2011
Shared by Chef /Owner Michael Burke
The Garage

 

White Chocolate Bread Pudding

8 oz          bread pieces

3 c         whipping cream

1 c         whole milk

1 c         white chocolate

7         egg yolks

2         eggs

½ c         sugar

melted butter

Mix the whipping cream, milk and sugar in a large stainless steel pot over medium heat. Add the chocolate to the mix and stir until melted and smooth. In a stainless bowl whisk the eggs and egg yolks then add them slowly into the chocolate mix.

The bread pieces need to be placed in a baking pan with sides such as a loaf cake pan, brushed with butter and baked at 250° until golden and crispy. This may be done ahead of time. Pour half the chocolate mix over the brad pieces. Press the bread down into the liquid mix. Add the remainder and let rest for 15 minutes before baking at 350° for 45 minutes covered with foil. Pull the foil and bake until golden, about 10 minutes more. Refrigerate after cooling.

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The Garage was the original Chevy dealership owned by mayor Harold Livingston decades ago. It occupied the curved front building at the corner of Pearl and Glenwood. It had been through several incarnations as a restaurant since the 1970’s before Michael and Laura Burke completed a remodel that honored the edifice, opening Burke’s Chop House in 2004.

Now is the right time for a bit of a change and The Garage is that change. The new environment is not very different. It’s just a bit more relaxed and as appealing as ever. The look incorporates some of the auto memorabilia they found inside the walls during their initial remodel into their design theme. It’s fun to see old car doors, hub caps and license plates.

It has a younger look and attitude, and new menu offerings for more casual dining. I may miss the succulent beef Wellington they did so well, the nice thick chops and yet we really didn’t go for the high end meal all that often. I may be stopping in there more. There certainly are many delicious reasons.

My favorite spicy rolls with peanut sauce remain as a starter, as do the colossal onion rings with chipotle dip, and French onion soup. Three cheese and a nightly pizza special have been added. Stuffed BBQ potato skins and sliders of buffalo, beef and crab sound tempting. Starting this week there will be happy hour drink specials and additional daily appetizers from 5 to 7. (more…)